Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and travelers alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, Unesco honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive roster of global cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it becomes part of a worldwide network of cities cities across over 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "demonstrates its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and vibrant gastronomic culture," according to a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this venerable city comes as little surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, lively, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the limelight for what has perennially defined its soul: an profound love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a constant dialogue from morning until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and raised to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, blending Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on every corner, there are little shops and stalls – little-known delights that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and involved. The vendor beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but note that their children are unwilling to master the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will encourage more people globally to discover these tales and experience the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
